Yes, if your printer fits the footprint. The top board measures 15.7 or 19.7 in wide and takes printers up to 16.5 in deep, and the baked-enamel steel frame carries the weight on your existing desk. The point isn't decoration — it lifts the printer off the surface so the open space underneath becomes a second level for paper, files or a second device. It is the Desk Riser for Printers.
I rent a small apartment and my printer eats my only desk. How do I set this up without drilling?
This is the exact case the riser was made for. Nothing is drilled, clamped or fixed to a wall, so your lease stays intact. Here's how I'd walk you through it:
- Measure your printer's width and depth first. If it's deeper than 16.5 in, stop — it won't sit safely on the top board.
- Measure the clearance you need under the top. Anything taller than 9.8 in won't fit in that gap, so check your paper stack or second device before you buy.
- Pick the width: 15.7 in for compact printers, 19.7 in if you want more room on top or a wider shelf below.
- Clear a spot on the desk, counter or floor. The riser is freestanding, so it just stands there.
- Set the printer on the wood-grain top and load the space underneath with paper, files or a second device.
One honest note: the maker's spec sheet contradicts itself on assembly, so we don't promise any specific assembly step. Budget a few minutes to figure out the frame yourself, or ask us before ordering if that matters to you.
Should I get the 15.7 in or the 19.7 in — or skip a riser and just use a shelf?
Two real options here, and they win in different rooms.
The 15.7 in riser wins when your printer is compact and desk space is tight. It's the narrower footprint, and it still gives you that 9.8 in of clearance underneath for a ream of paper or a router.
The 19.7 in riser wins when you want the top to hold more than the printer, or when you want a wider second level for files and a second device. Same height clearance, more surface.
A wall-mounted or drilled-in shelf wins only if you're allowed to put holes in the wall and you truly can't spare the desk footprint. For renters, that's usually off the table. And a plain shelf on brackets doesn't move with you the way a freestanding riser does — this one stands on a desk, counter or floor and goes with you when you move.
Where I'd steer you away from the riser: kitchens and bathrooms. Moisture and steam aren't kind to the wood-grain top or the steel over time. It also isn't the answer for gaps narrower than 15.7 in, printers deeper than 16.5 in, or anything taller than 9.8 in that needs to slide under the top.
For a home office where the printer eats the surface, the riser is the simpler call. It also works fine on a laundry counter or a garage bench, as long as the room stays dry.
Quick takeaways
- Printer must be 16.5 in deep or less; top board comes in 15.7 or 19.7 in wide.
- Under-top clearance is 9.8 in — measure your paper stack or second device before ordering.
- Freestanding, no drilling; skip it for kitchens, bathrooms and gaps under 15.7 in.
Q: can a desk riser hold a printer?
A: Yes, as long as the printer is no deeper than 16.5 in and fits the 15.7 or 19.7 in top board. The baked-enamel steel frame and wood-grain top stand freestanding on your desk, counter or floor with no drilling.
Q: i rent a small apartment and my printer eats my only desk, how do i set up a riser without drilling?
A: Measure your printer's width and depth, then check that whatever goes underneath is under 9.8 in tall. Set the freestanding riser on the desk, put the printer on the wood-grain top, and use the open space below for paper or a second device — nothing gets fixed to a wall.
Q: should i get the 15.7 in desk riser or the 19.7 in one?
A: The 15.7 in fits compact printers and tight desks; the 19.7 in gives you a wider top and a wider second level for files or a second device. Both have the same 9.8 in clearance under the top, so pick based on your printer's width and how much you want to store below.